Wednesday, May 13, 2020

Dear Friends,

A lot has happened since my last post… 8 months ago! I left you with that uninspiring photograph of our new well casing sticking up out of the ground – and actually that’s one thing that has not happened… still no pump in the well. We’re still fetching water from the neighbor’s place, three 5-gallon potable water totes at a time. That’s OK for a long weekend, but I’ve been out here for going on two months now. That water fetching arrangement is really getting old. 

That’s right, the pandemic has placed me here up in Modoc for the last two months and, at this point, for the foreseeable future. Flight instruction, my main source of income, is not considered an “essential activity.” Nor can it be done 6 feet apart. My work at NDNU continues for the moment, earning me just enough to disqualify me from receiving unemployment, but all teaching is happening online so… here I am up at Owl Creek in Modoc.


And here is the shed being adorned with internet equipment. None of the internet providers you’ve ever heard of services the remote areas of Surprise Valley. Here, we have Dirk Net. Dirk Net is literally a guy named Dirk who runs a network. In fact, this guy in the picture is Dirk. Everyone here in Surprise Valley, unless they live right in the thriving metropolis of Cedarville (population 514) relies on Dirk Net. And if I was going to teach my classes online from here, I needed to rely on Dirk Net too.



Like so many people, the pandemic has thrown me into transition, or accelerated a transition already under way. My plan was to work for three more years, build the hermitage here at Owl Creek, then find ways to make that into a sustaining last-thing career, providing retreats for people who need to re-connect with the natural world and with themselves… serving as a refuge for over-stressed urbanites who just need space to breathe and remember who they are… all on a donation basis following the Buddhist concept of “dana” – get what you need, pay what you can. It was a beautiful idea, but the coronavirus has taken away the income I need to pay for it. 

But maybe flight instruction is not the way I’m supposed to pay for this vision. Maybe it’s supposed to happen a different way. 

Transitioning in response to change is on a lot of people’s minds these days, so I thought I might as well write about that. My experience is just one of many… but how to approach it constructively? Change thrust upon a person in this way is a major disrupter of life. But sometimes, not always but sometimes, disruption has a positive role to play in forcing us to set aside what’s become too comfortable, too assumed. 

For a while, we see it as a temporary disruption of a status quo we rely on, as in: “Oh my god, I can’t do flight instruction and flight instruction is how I pay to build the hermitage.” At this stage, we don’t even recognize it as a situation that might be prompting us to consider transition. 

But when seen as a temporary disruption, the longer it goes on the more damage it does: “I haven’t flown in two months… we’re not going to be able to build the bath house this year.” We still might not recognize it as a changed situation prompting us to consider transition… we just see it as increasingly urgent, damaging, and stressful.

Then at some point you begin to realize that some key assumptions might have been wrong from the beginning… this disruption has no end-date, it doesn’t even have a clear end-scenario. Maybe, you realize, it’s not temporary. And this moment when you realize the disruption might not be temporary can go a number of ways: “This is a disaster… there’s no way to complete this hermitage project without my flight instruction income. I’ll just be out here with a shed and a trailer forever, fetching water 15 gallons at a time, and never make my retreat vision a reality.” That’s one way it can go. And I’m sure I’m like a lot of other people when I say I’ve had my moments of letting it go this way. Maybe everyone experiencing financial losses from the lockdown has had similar moments of despair.

But giving in to despair is not transitioning. Giving in to despair is holding onto a suddenly-outdated version of reality in which some aspect of our past life is no longer viable. We can mourn its loss, but we also need to look for opportunities to move forward without it. Maybe even move in a better direction. Who knows… maybe it was preventing us from doing something even more satisfying. Why are we still holding onto it?: “Why do I assume flight instruction is the only way to pay for the hermitage? Yes, it’s what I know. And yes, it’s what I’m comfortable with. But maybe there are other things I know, not well enough to rely on them, not even well enough to be comfortable promoting them, but maybe well enough to give them a try.” 

So that’s where I’m at. Accepting that flight instruction might not happen for months, or ever. Trying to be open to recognizing opportunities that might have been sitting on the sidelines. I haven’t found them yet, just saying I’m trying to be open. If you have any brilliant ideas for me, please send them my way. And if you’re still reading, it’s probably because you’ve also found this lockdown situation stressful and can relate to what I’m saying. Either that or you’re my mom and are de facto obligated to read every word. So, for everyone still reading who is not my mom, I encourage you to also step back and look for opportunities to develop some of your under-recognized skills and talents, maybe even look for opportunities to respond to this disruption we call lockdown with a constructive and life-enhancing transition. 

And on that note, I’ll switch gears and end this post on a more positive note with some photos of what’s developed here at Owl Creek since my last update so many months ago.

I left off with getting the well drilled. That was an exciting development to be sure, but 8 months later I’m even more excited that we might soon have our solar pump and a hose bib and we’ll be able to actually get water out of it. Only when the sun shines, but it’s a step. Thanks to the virus, we’ll likely have to wait until next year to build the pump house that will contain the storage tank that will give us water 24x7.











We bushwhacked out to what we think is almost the southwest corner of the property. It’s up into the mountain a bit and probably slightly over the ridge behind where we took this picture from. Along the way, we passed some enormous old juniper trees. We decided if we make a path out to the mountain, we’ll called it Avenue of the Giant Junipers… or something like that.
 


Amy, Faria and Sunny came out for a visit. I took almost no pictures at all from that trip, but Faria took some wonderful ones which I’ll try to link to. I did take one picture – and if it weren’t for this, no-one would believe what happened that night. Poor Amy was sleeping in the trailer when something rustling around on the deck woke her up. At first, she just tapped against the side of the trailer to shoo it away, but then she looked out the window and saw a black bear right there on the deck. The deck is only a few feet wide and the walls of the trailer are only about an inch thick, so you can imagine how close she was to him. 

Well, we’d given her an alarm bell to ring in case she needed anything, but ringing it would have required her to open the door, and, she thought, if we heard it we would just come running… right toward the bear. She decided not to ring the alarm. 

In the morning, we traced the bear’s path from the trailer deck, to a bucket of ashes he pawed through, over to the compost pile (he didn’t seem to like celery), then out along the potty path, where he apparently stopped to bite into our pump bottle of hand soap, rub his nose against the dirt, and then walk over to take a big whiff of our roll of toilet paper, leaving us this final evidence, despite no paw prints at all, that he had come for a visit. How big is a bear whose nose is just about 2-1/2 inches tall? Who knows. Hopefully he has moved on back to the forest. Amy should feel privileged, though… only one other neighbor was visited by this bear and Amy was the only one in the valley to actually see it with her own eyes.



The potty path in winter, a little while after sunset when the remaining light on the snow is still this lovely purple color. This is about the darkest point at which I personally will still walk out to the potty, which is buried behind sagebrushes for privacy. Having had the bear incident, I now feel totally justified in not wanting to be out there in the dark!




Another walk to search for the elusive edges of the property



The creek broke its banks pretty thoroughly this year, which is great for us because it created a small wetland area near the orchard. We are located along the Pacific Flyway and this year, we’ve had more geese and some ducks take up temporary residence, tempted by this wetland. 













In March, Joel and I took a trip to Paris to visit my friend Caroline. Here’s Joel walking through the catacombs.
We’d both been working long hours for months at that point, tickets were about $350 each and we had a place to stay. It seemed like a great, inexpensive break. What could possibly go wrong?

What indeed… halfway through our trip, we heard the news that Italy had locked down the entire country in an effort to contain the coronavirus. Oh my god, we thought, that’s crazy. That could never happen in the United States.  A couple days later, we read the announcement that flights from Europe to the US would cease three days before we were due to return. We need to leave,  I said – today, now! And we set about trying to move up our return. Caroline and her husband drove us to the airport that afternoon, bags in hand, but this scene at the United desk was not inspiring to say the least. 


We owe a lot of gratitude to a helpful United phone agent who stuck with us that evening until she’d found us a way home. Over dinner, we listened to President Macron’s address to the nation outlining the beginning of France’s lockdown restrictions… incredible, we said. It couldn’t happen in America that the government would limit people’s freedom of movement like that.

We came home to a self-quarantine scenario, lucky to have humorous housemates like Joe here who were brave enough to bring us food and supplies. 

And then, of course, every couple of days brought more amazing, unprecedented measures – the Bay Area shelter-in-place, and finally the state-wide shelter-in-place. 



If we’re going to shelter in place, we decided, let’s do it in Modoc. And once again it was, We need to leave, now. Or, as Joel likes to tell it, I shoved some food in his mouth and said, Eat this – we’re leaving in 15 minutes. This was before they clarified that you don’t get to choose where you shelter in place, or that we wouldn’t be able to travel back and forth easily to alternate between sheltering in Modoc or in the Bay Area. And, of course, it was at that point only supposed to be for about two weeks. Now it’s been almost two months and still no real end in sight. Modoc, however, is a great place to be if you have to shelter in place, since the population is sparse to start with and we’ve had no cases of the virus in the county. Here we are arriving at the property early the next morning. I haven’t been home since.

Thinking the lockdown would only last a couple of weeks (a temporary disruption, as reflected on above), we set to work making our time up here useful by starting on our next project – the energy shed. This is where our solar PV system batteries and controller will live and we want to get that system installed later this year, right? So let’s go. Joel being the talented and industrious man he is, and me being a willing helper, it only took a couple of days to complete the foundation, shell and roof, complete with a rolling barn door courtesy of our Greenwave house-mate Barb.







Meanwhile, we also got reacquainted with our local herd of deer… 












and set up this stove my friend Aaron gave me for my birthday last year…






We missed the company of "Tarp Man" - the unintended scarecrow that was the stove all winter.












At some point along the way, Allie started sitting at the table with us in the evenings. Not every day, but you know…


With the energy shed done (minus siding, which is pending a delivery of rough sawn lumber from the local mill), and our building permit in hand, it was time to turn our attention to the bath house. At this point, we might have been starting to move into stage two of the process I reflected on above… the original two weeks of lockdown were almost up – what would happen? If my self-employment work of flight training was still banned into April, with not a penny of all this government assistance coming my way, I was going to be in some serious financial difficulty. 
But our wonderful neighbor Ed was willing to let us borrow his small bulldozer for free, so we decided to go ahead and get started with the parts of that job that are mostly labor with minimal materials cost to pay for. Here’s Ed giving Joel a lesson on starting and operating his little old dozer that’s probably as old as I am.



And it’s arrival at our build site that afternoon. Aaron was also at the property for a while and together we prepared the site for its final flattening with this cute red machine. Allie supervises.















Allie joined us for rests by the creek on this bench made from a fallen juniper tree.


I attended my first branding. Really makes you appreciate where your meat comes from.



We started using the outdoor oven to bake pizzas.



Allie really likes home-made pizzas baked on apple wood.











In between projects, we (mostly Joel) started building a covered straw bale garden… in case this virus thing got really crazy and we needed to grow our own food supply.







And we watched the spring blossoms both come and go on the apple trees... almost the end of April now and still wondering when I’ll be able to get back to work, but also really enjoying this opportunity to connect so deeply with the growing homestead here at Owl Creek. 

Thursday, September 5, 2019

Well, well... A well!



Yep, this is what the above-ground portion of a well looks like. Your $15-20k is just the initial investment that gets you a capped pipe protruding above the 100-year flood line. But we found our water source and we are happy with it... 185 feet deep, 55 degrees in temperature, 22 gallons per minute and crystal clear. Hooray for that!













We had our biggest group yet a couple of weeks ago and that was exciting. My friend Brenda was in that group and, unlike me, Brenda really knows how to take photographs. I can snap a picture, but Brenda knows how to make every shot look like a work of art. Her photos also tell the story of the weekend, so I'm just going to encourage you to follow the link below to see them:

https://adobe.ly/2yZUx4n

Thanks to Brenda, Pat, Nolan, Sylvia, Mike, William, Aaron and Joel for coming out and making it such a fun weekend. We also in that time built an outdoor shower, installed a new and easier to use gate, found the northwest corner property marker, made half a gallon of apple juice, and buried a huge pile of vegetation debris that was a fire hazard. Thanks all for your help with those projects! Also thanks to neighbor Ed for loaning us his back hoe, Aaron for the awesome wood-burning stove, my mom for the apple picker I bought with her gift card, Patricia M for the apple crusher I bought with her gift card, Heejay for her gift card which I haven't used yet, and Brenda's sister Julie for the claw foot tub. It's super exciting to see people supporting our vision for the hermitage with their presence, their friendship, their sweat and their contributions in these many ways!

The new gate!

Wednesday, July 31, 2019

Playtime at Owl Creek

We've got one more trip up to Owl Creek this summer. On the agenda: our first Apple Cider Press the morning of Sunday, August 11. We'll need a team for this - the more the merrier because we literally have 5 trees laden with fruit. We'll rotate people between jobs: picker, trimmer/QC, washer, crusher, juicer, catcher, sterilizer and  pasteurizer. Everyone who comes out to help will go home with some apple juice and/or cider in the making.

Also on the agenda is enjoying the Perseid meteor shower. Joel, Aaron and I sat outside watching the sky up there this past weekend and we lost count of how many shooting stars we saw while killing a bottle of Russian River Vineyard Zin. We're excited to find out how many we see during the actual meteor shower!

If you'd like to come up, you can plan on any stretch between August 9th and the 18th (although, as noted above, Cider Press will be August 11). Let me know if you plan to come up - directions are in a previous post on this blog.

Pictures from last trip:

Natural hot spring about 10 miles south of the property. It's got just enough elevation to give you both a view of the valley and a sense of privacy nestled  among the natural Modoc sunflowers and thick patches of aromatic mint. Water is perfect hot tub temps!
We walked out past the small diversion dam to the natural flowing area of Owl Creek. 


 Allie loves indulging her natural canine side, chasing rabbits and squirrels... and playing with sticks. She really loves sticks! 



A man and his dog at the creek. Doesn't get better than that. 

We are still trying to figure out where the property line is... somewhere up this mountain.
 (above) Trail out to diversion dam. 

(right) The drill rig is still out there, slowly making their way down to find our future water supply!

Beautiful old juniper tree full of berries. 

Continuing to clear and compost.

(below) This is what it looks like when entering the main gate. So far one person has gone to my north-neighbor and another has ended up at the across-the-street neighbor's!

We outlined a small parking area with stones for those who don't want to drive their city-car up the full length of the driveway. Just let us know you're coming and we'll drive out to get you.

Tuesday, July 9, 2019

Lots going on at Owl Creek this week.

Three new guests - George & Diana from Greenwave and my pilot friend Aaron - came out for the weekend. Our big project was starting to clear the future build site and pulling invasive weeds that I can't let proliferate and blow into my neighbors' cow fields.


We used about half of the removed brush to cook dinner and breakfast over a campfire.

When we arrived, we found this beautiful piece of equipment staged in the driveway near the future well site. They are probably drilling this very moment as I'm typing this update, so please send your well wishes for the well my way. I'm hoping for good drinking water, at least 10-15 gallons per minute, within the 200-foot-deep price estimate.












You can see a trailer in the background of the photo above, behind George, Diana & Aaron. Joel towed that over so we'd have a more comfortable place to stay. Not that the shed isn't charming, mind you, but it is nice to have options. The arrival of the trailer was exciting, but Joel lost no time getting started on a deck for it.









Aaron helped and it was ready in time for us to have an inaugural dinner on it Sunday evening...


... and breakfast next morning.


Thank you to George, Diana and Aaron for all their help with projects this weekend, and to Alicia who couldn't join us but donated the funds to buy the deck wood and the materials we used to make three off-grid automated watering devices for our trees and blueberry bush. Also thanks to Anand for donating funds to buy two hand-blacksmithed dinner bells... one for mealtime and the other to use as a gate-bell for people who need a ride up the driveway.

One of the most exciting developments for me, maybe because I wasn't expecting it, was the campground. We have an area under the big leafy cottonwood trees that was full of tall grasses and branches from a fallen tree. It's in the human zone so eventually we were going to clear all that out, but we didn't have a clear plan other than continuing to make the human zone less inviting to critters. I took the weed whacker to it and indeed it did look like it would be less inviting to critters so I thought that job was done. Joel had a different vision. "Don't put that away quite yet," he said as I started to unplug. He recruited me and Aaron to pull up the dead branches (creating yet another pile of dead branches for the Solstice bonfire), and then he weed whacked again. He's better at that than I am, so instead of a short-but-shaggy result, he got it all nice and even. Maybe you need to take a couple of passes at it when the grass is that long, so I'll say this was a team effort. The outcome was a pretty area for people to set up their tents under the pleasant shade of the big cottonwood trees and with one of the best views of Eagle Peak. No longer was it just "less inviting to critters," it became more inviting to humans. In fact, it became our go-to shady resting place for the rest of the trip. It will be perfect for people to set up camp - until now, we've been setting tents up in the driveway!

It was amazing to me to see how an hour's effort could transform a patch of grasses into an inviting campground. That's what happens when you pair yourself up with a man who understands your vision even better than you do yourself... 1+1=3. Thank you Joel for the energy and passion you bring to Owl Creek.

I didn't take a picture of the campground - you'll have to come up and try it out yourself. Next opportunity for that is the last weekend of July: it turns out we will be helping with the Eagleville BBQ so best timing for guests would be to drive up Saturday, meet us at Owl Creek in the early evening, and stay Saturday, Sunday and, if you'd like, Monday nights. One of us will be there til Tuesday. We hope to see you out there!






Tuesday, June 25, 2019

Whoo hoo! Build it and they will come...

So inspired by the responses to the last blog update!

Here are some things to know if you're planning a visit, and also info for those of you who asked how to donate to the project.

Address:

APN 033-180-021-000 & 033-180-023-0000

Just kidding. That's all we've got at the moment, so we use our neighbor's address to get people close.

Directions:

Take I-5 North to Redding. Turn right onto 299 East. Stay on that for about 2-1/2 hours til you get to Cedarville, on the far side of the Warner Mountains. Turn right onto County Road 1, at the stop sign  in Cedarville.  About 10.5 miles south of Cedarville, you'll pass our next-door neighbor Mary Cook Davis's mailbox: 18475 County Road 1. Our dirt driveway is your next right, before the road goes over a drainage ditch. (Directly across the street, on your left, you'll see our across-the-road neighbor's mailbox.) Turn right into the dirt driveway - you'll be facing the Warner Mountains, and you'll see our "No Trespassing / Keep Gate Closed" sign. The gate will probably be open and you can leave it that way. After about a quarter of a mile, take a turn to the right, toward the big poplar and cottonwood trees you've seen in the photos. There's a turnout where you can park your car just outside the second gate. We'll know you're there by the dust trail your car makes down the driveway. Verizon works.

This above is a very scenic route! You can also go via Reno, but the terrain is less diverse and also considerably more remote. As you pass through Burney, you'll encounter the last stop light... you won't see another stop light until you're on your way home from your visit.

Lodging:

The nearest place to stay, if you don't want to camp, is  https://highdesertlodging.com

High Desert Lodging is awesome; however, as you can see, we literally fit a queen size cot bed AND a massage table inside the giant canvas glamping tent and there was still room for the sheepskin rug where we sipped our wine and watched the last light fade in the sky behind the Warners. We have 2 cots and plenty of comfy tents for guests.

Donations:

If you have things you want to donate, I can come pick them up and have a place to store them until my next trip. If you'd like to make a money donation to the project, the easiest way is to send an Amazon gift card - my Amazon account is linked to my pandrewscfi@yahoo.com email address. We get a surprising number of our supplies on Amazon. If you want your donation to contribute most directly to a structure, like the deck we'll be making in July, you can contact Jimmy Lloyd at Four Seasons Supply Center / Ace Hardware Alturas and have him put that on my account. This is a friendly local business we like to support and we get a lot of our building supplies here: https://www.acehardware.com/store-details/04523

Thank you for any donations, whether they are of sweat, time, things or money!


Wednesday, June 19, 2019

Spring is finally here!

Boy did I have some big expectations when I last updated this blog in January! I've been up at least once each calendar month since then and learned a few things along the way... for one, you can't install a septic system until it stops snowing. Also, getting a building permit in California is no small task. And, for some reason, friends mostly want to visit when the roads aren't icy anymore.

On the other hand, I've had a lot of enjoyable time getting to know the plants and wildlife that live near Owl Creek, like the truly beautiful flicker (species of woodpecker) that left me this gift when it tried to move into the shed.















How 'bout this fake owl I brought in to protect my poor little shed while I'm away?
















I've learned how to disassemble dead sagebrushes so I can dispose of them safely without having a giant burn on my property. This brush pile looked like it had been growing for years. I snapped the picture about halfway through disassembling it. What most people up there would do is just throw some diesel fuel around the edges and torch it. I couldn't do that because (a) I'm terrified of starting such a big fire, and (b) I'd rather turn the old brush into something useful if I can, like mulch, chips, compost or campfire.




The half pile I did was only this big once it was stacked. Stacked piles are safer from a wildfire point of view. They would make a great start to a Winter Solstice bonfire!
Another way to use dead wood and brush is to make a hugel... a decomposing pile with plants already growing in it. The layer of bark on top is to help keep moisture in while we're away.

I've found the natural hot springs down the road... very nice after a long day's work! I've had some fun weekends up there with Joel, and I've started learning a lot about design and construction, which I find very interesting.

More photos below. You'll see by the end that we are securely into spring at this point and it's a great time to come for a visit if you feel the need to get away. We will be there in July and August as noted below and you are welcome to come out to explore, meditate, help or just hang out - whatever feels motivating to you:

July 5-8
The night sky will be relatively moonless so should be a good time to see the Milky Way.
Projects: We will be building a prototype automated rain barrel watering system for our peach trees. We will also build a deck.

July 25-29
Eagleville BBQ is Saturday, July 27
Projects: Continued abatement of dead vegetation without large burns - e.g. making hugels (google hugelkultur), disassembly, mulching, chipping, long evening campfires in the gravel pit.

August 7 - 13 or 18
Projects: We will be borrowing our neighbor's back hoe on this trip to start preparing the build site. We will also use the equipment to build large hugelkultur beds if these are needed. We hope to start the process of turning a 2-acre patch of invasive thistles back into its natural state, which is more like a seasonal wetland. This will be a big job but the migratory birds will be so happy!

Perseid Meteor Shower
We will have a deck built in time to enjoy the Perseids in comfort.
Peaking August 12-13 but happening for several nights before

This would be a great time to visit!

We timed a late-January visit perfectly to experience a rare freezing fog weather event! This picture taken during daylight.

Joel hand-dug a 6' hole and make this comfy potty for us to hide down a sagebrush trail.
Cold but happy potty model!



Our next visit, in late February / early March, brought clear skies and... more snow. It was a good year for snow in California in general.





We didn't let the snow stop us from enjoying our Spring Break holiday.

April brought green back to the apple trees...

... and blue back to the skies. This is the Hays Range in Nevada, where the stars roll into the night sky in a magical way.

And it brought more cool campfire weather.




I spent some time hanging out at our proposed home build site and contemplating the panoramic views...



too bad my camera skills aren't up to showing you panoramic views

May brought my friend Tom out for a fantastic lightning storm and several trips out to the gravel pit while we built the "Asteroid Belt" around the fire pit - you'll have to come out to visit to see why we called it the Asteroid Belt. May also brought more green to the apple trees - I missed the flowers completely this year!



And finally, this past weekend, Joel finally got to spend some non-snowbound time up there. Wildflowers blooming around the property, including this mystery plant -

Owl Creek spilled over into the flood ditch...

And we enjoyed a spectacular Modoc sunset while nursing a campfire in the gravel pit.




And thus ends the June chapter of my Owl Creek blog. One day, I'll learn how to use these barbed wire Modoc farm gates. Til then, bungee cords will have to do. Come out and visit soon!








WISH LIST
If you have any of the following items to sell or donate, please let us know. Full wish list is here with currently-most-needed items summarized below:
* APPLE PRESS
* ELBOW LENGTH GARDENING GLOVES
* WHEELBARROW
* TRIMMER / WEED-EATER STRING
* SAWDUST
* SOLAR PATH LIGHTS
*TARPS
* RAIN BARRELS
* GARDEN HOSES
* CHIPPER (WOULD BE AMAZING TO FIND A GOOD DEAL ON A CHIPPER)
* PISSOIRS
* RUBBER BOOTS
* FRESH BEAR SPRAY

Thanks to Barb, Robert, Alyce, Mike, Faria, Sunny, Gisela, Peter, Don and Greenwave for all the helpful donations so far, and also to my students Audrey, Alyce, Mike, Beth, Steve and Stoo for the Amazon gift card a while back... there was enough left over after the headset to get a few needed items for Owl Creek as well!